After a little digging on a backup drive i found my instructions write up. And here they are.....
Molding Your Own Toy(s)
Materials needed but most are not necessarily required
timer
3 spatulas
5 quart plastic painters bucket (may want to have more than 1 handy)
denatured alcohol solvent
2 glass measuring cups
sharp cutting tool/knife
flavor injector
Dragonskin (call the dealer and ask questions about it to find out which type is best for you. in particular ask about how hard/rigid it is after it cures.) I used 20. make sure they send instructions with the mix if you decide to purchase this. the actual mix may vary from what i give directions for.
vacuum chamber (not required but has best results for removing the bubbles)
If you already have a hollow item you wish to make then use these directions
For my example I will use one that i have already made
1 Lets begin by finding the item or making the toy you wish to turn into a silicon toy, such as a plastic 1-liter bottle. An item that will stand upright on its own is easy to work with, but an item that does not stand upright can be used also by simply finding a stable way to get it to stand upright (for instance a hollow plastic football - use a box fairly close to it's size). After this step i will call your item the mold. A thin wall item is useful to make it is easier to remove it from your new toy.
2 After you have emptied it, wash it out, and let it dry completely.
3 Then clean it once again using denatured alcohol solvent. The alcohol will evaporate relatively fast.
The alcohol i have found (so far in my work experiences) does not damage the item you are cleaning.
Steps 2+3 are important because if there is any contaminates in the bottle it can inhibit the curing (solidifying) of the silicon and your work will be wasted.
4 Cut about 1"-1 1/2" off the top of the bottle.
5 Get a small bucket (i used a 5 quart plastic paint bucket that i got from a hardware store)
6 Once again clean this out completely using the steps 2+3
7 In a place that is carpet/cloth free mix the 2 part silicon together (i will give more detailed directions on this step later). do not worry about undermixing enough material, just mix more and pour it onto the previous mix (see the tips section about this)
8 Using a flavor injector or some other type of small suction device remove any large bubbles you can see in the mix before pouring into your mold.
9 Using a constant steady pour, pour the contents of the bucket into the mold. The mix is fairly thick and will pour in a slow steady stream, try to do the pour in one steady pouring. If you break the pour you can introduce bubbles into your mix, this does not always happen but is a possibility. fill your mold completely to the level desired.
10 Depending on which dragonskin you purchased let it cure in a dry place for the required time. Drape a piece of saran wrap over it to keep it dry and clean of any airborn dust/particles.
11 Using a sharp item (the smaller the better for better control, utility knife blade is good - i used a scalpel blade), carefully cut the item off of your new silicon toy.
12 LUBE UP AND ENJOY !
Tips
When preparing to mix the ingredients for your toy here are a few tips to remember
clean everything that will be coming into contact with the mix using denatured alcohol (mold, bucket/bowl, spatula/spoon, whatever you use to remove bubbles, measuring cups, etc.)
mix in an area that will not get ruined in case of a spill (no carpet or cloth)
if you do have a spill do not worry other than the loss of material, let it cure and just peel it up, unless you ignored the previous tip. if you did mix it up over cloth or carpet, good luck cleaning it up, think of it as wax and bubble gum mixed together. i have shirts that i spilled this stuff onto and it never came out.
your cure times can vary depending on which type of dragonskin you purchased, but always add bonus time to it just to be safe. my personal experience was to let the 8 hour cure time go over night (12 hours +)
this mix is viscuous, bubbles will not rise on their own and will have to be removed by hand
unless you have access to a vacuum chamber (not to expensive of an investment if you are going to make several toys) remove as many bubbles as you can using a small suction item. bounce the bucket on a hard surface, this may bring some of the bubbles to the top, but not always. most bubbles on the surface will not pop on their own and will need to be popped. (i used a flavor injector - a syringe with a large barrel, cooking aisle at most stores) coincidentally if you remove both the needle and the metal nib it screws onto you also have a decent lube injector.
if you use a bucket to mix in, mix in smaller batches and you can easily remove almost all of the bubbles you make when you stir. the material will be shallow and spread out over the bottom allowing you to see the bubbles easily.
do not worry if you cannot get all of the bubbles out, bounce the mold a few times on the table to get them to rise away from the sides (hopefully)
unless you have a second item ready to pour into, try to undermix your amounts until you get the feel for this and you learn your quantities. you can always do a second mixing to finish the fill.
as long as there is no contaminants on/in the mix, even if it is cured, you can mix another batch and pour onto a previously poured mix with no defects in the materials. dragonskin will adhere solidly to itself with no visible seams as long as there was no contaminants. this is helpful if you have any large bubbles along the sides. - do a small mix and fill them in.
use a timer during the mix and pour. you only have limited time to pour. you will need to check the amount of time you have by looking at what type of material you are using. the manufacturer usually gives time information for your material. the material i used (dragonskin 20) had about 20-25 minutes, i always used the low end of that for my time limit.
use measuring cups, a pair of glass measuring cups works best with solid measurement lines. try to find cups that have multiple measurement points on them, 1/4, 1/3, 1/2, etc. glass is easy to clean up before and after
works best if you use 3 spatulas. 1 for material a, 1 for material b, and 1 to stir and to scrape the actual combined mixes
when you are done, let the residue in the bucket finish curing. peel it out and place this into an air-tite baggie. you can use this as filler on the next toy make. cut it up into small pieces and then partially fill the mold first with the mix then drop in pieces of the cured cuts into it. as explained earlier as long as it is clean it will adhere to itself easily. doing this can save you material in your pours.
The Actual Mix (these directions are for dragonskin, other materials may require varying amounts)
1 Prep everything first, clean, get everything required near the mixing point
2 the mix can be either measured out using weight (not recommended) or by volume (recommended)
the ratio for volume is 50/50. 1 cup of silicon to 1 cup of catalyst (part a and part b)
3 pour a cup of material a into one measuring cup and a cup of material b into the other measuring cup (can do any amount as long as they are equal)
4 pour one of the cups of the silicon mix into the bucket, use a spatula to scrape the sides of the cup (use a separate spatula for each cup) when you start to pour the second cup of material into the first material, start your timer (scrape sides of cup)
5 thoroughly stir using a spatula (not necessary but useful to scrape the sides of the bucket during the mix and the pour) and preferably using a third spatula
6 remove bubbles
7 pour into the mold
if you need to do a 2nd mix or more, either wait for the material left in the bucket to completely cure and then clean it out or use more buckets. the left-overs in the bucket can cause your next mix to start curing prematurely and your time to get it poured will be greatly shortened.
repeat steps 3-7 until your mold is filled to the point you are desiring.
use your imagination and you can make interesting toys.
hobby lobby sells a plastic for sculpting that is kneedable and does not harden completely. buy a few packages of this and thinking like a pottery maker, sculpt it into shape of anything you want to insert (for example a tapered cone with a rounded girth of 2-3 inches at the top and ending at the bottom with a girth of 9 inches and it is about 6-8 inches long. pour the mix into it and you just made a starting stretcher toy.
dragonskin is slightly more rigid than your average dildo but no where close to the rigidity that the rambone dildo has. if you talk to the sales reps you can find softer materials for your tastes. i know that one of the dealers for this stuff is in columbus, ohio and there are many others spread out across the u.s. i am not sure if there are foreign dealers or not but it cannot hurt to look into it. a friend made a dildo for his wife this way that he called frankencock (it looked like a stitched together penis made from different people). i made a bowling pin dildo by using a hollow plastic bowling pin from a kids bowling set. cut part of the head of the pin off and fill the hollow cavity (remember to put tape on the hole on the bottom of the pin).
Hopefully this helps. Message me if you need help or more info.
