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RectalSonar

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Posts posted by RectalSonar

  1. Sounds like it could be very expensive...unless you live somewhere that has low housing prices, renting or buying a whole second place might be untenable for most people.

    All that being said, if money and travel time were of no importance I know exactly what I'd choose as my fuck-pad: the concrete box apartment I lived in many years ago. Long story short, I worked a contract job and needed somewhere absolutely dirt cheap to live until it became a permanent job or I found other permanent work, so I ended up finding a building being rented as apartments that had previously served at various times as college dorm rooms and hotel rooms. The entire footprint of the apartment was maybe 25 feet by 15 feet, and part of that was the bathroom (toilet/shower only) and sink area. No kitchen, concrete walls and floors, shitty little electric space heater for winter, and a commercial-grade metal front door with one window. It didn't even have a mail box...I had to walk three blocks to the post office to pick up anything that wasn't left on the floor in front of the door. It was rather terrible to live in - I slept on a futon, had my computer on a folding table and TV on a nightstand, stored most of my clothes in cloth baskets, and ate fast food two or three nights every week (because cooking with only a toaster, microwave, pizza cooker, and mini fridge was a challenge).

    But the bathroom is fully tiled from floor to ceiling, the walls and floors aside from some wood paneling in the sink area are all super easy to keep clean, and there's enough room to put a full (or maybe queen) bed on a simple frame if you don't have any other furniture. I also don't recall ever hearing noises from the next door or downstairs neighbors, and rent would have been only $325 a month if I had signed a long-term lease (it was $375 month-to-month). Other than a complete lack of ambiance, I struggle to think of a better setup for an anus-ruining hideaway.

  2. On 8/18/2021 at 4:04 PM, Ohyes1978 said:

    Then it would be to much, because if your prolapse go out by itself it would be disaster, you need control it by you, I still can’t push my prolapse easy, I need pump it out. And after I release it goes in, I think my anal hole too small that it cannot go out, I play with 10.5 cm dildos in diameter, maybe my hemorrhoids holding it 

    401LMCg.jpg

    My understanding - purely derived from watching a pantsload of prolapse porn - is that coaxing a prolapse out is way easier (though not guaranteed by any means) when your hole is heavily gaped/ruined. Imagine trying to pull a wet sock out of the opening in a plastic gallon jug versus pulling it out of a mail box...there's just more room to work with when the hole itself is larger.

  3. On 8/19/2021 at 5:15 PM, Rosebutt said:

    I dropped a decent amount of cash on an OxBalls tunnel plug. I heard they were the best.

     

    Well, it sucks. Firstly, the insertable part’s walls are so thin that I have to use a dildo inserted in it just to get it in my hole. And my hole is STRETCHED. The once I take the toy out, the damned thing pops right out if I’m not on my knees with my head down. If I stand up, it pops right out. 
     

    Very disappointed. 2/10. Would not recommend. 

    Good to know! I've only owned one tunnel plug and it kind of scared me...I was having fun up until the point where I squeezed the wrong way and the entire thing almost slipped inside - I caught it by the corner of the base just before it would have likely turned into a trip to the hospital.

  4. Softer toys are indeed easier to insert at large sizes - and if you're 3D printing, you could use a flexible filament and play around with the settings to adjust how soft it is when in use. Printing with flexible filaments can be a challenge but once you have the basics down of how to make good prints, tweaking infill percentages, using filaments with varying hardness levels, and dialing in the right number of walls is a fun experimentation process.

    Some months ago on this forum, I documented the process I went through in 3D printing my own butt plug. I ended up using a harder TPU filament with a rather light infill (5% in the thickest sections, with 30% or 50% in the neck/base for rigidity and 100% at the very tip to avoid collapsing surface layers) and then coated it in a platinum silicone for worry-free use. Although I am still plagued by limited stretching opportunities, it's been a great go-to for when I want to ruin my hole.

  5. On 4/10/2021 at 2:22 PM, amateurplug said:

    Printed in PLA. No need to print in horizontal layers, i have mine plug for almost two years. Just let me know

    Did you put on any coatings, do any sanding, or just used as-is? I've avoided making toys in PLA or PETG because I think they'd be harder than I'd find comfortable, my only printed toys so far have been printed in TPU. Even then, the one that I use most often was coated with high-quality silicone to smooth out the layer lines (for comfort and safety purposes) and seal any gaps.

  6. Any time you have blood coming out of your penis, you need to see a doctor. Any embarrassment over how it happened should be secondary to the fact that you have blood coming out of your penis, so be truthful and complete so your doctor has as much information as possible to make a diagnosis and recommend treatment.

  7. So, update: after some more practice with getting my hole back into shape, I did successfully get all the way in with my printed plug. On reflection, I think I did get the infill percentage correct for this size and shape but if I do print another plug I will go ahead with the more gradual infill change above the neck. Next on the docket, however (after a bunch of other non-sexual projects I have in the pipeline are done), would be either a different plug shape - perhaps something for longer-term wear - or a dildo of some kind. I'll have to do some more experimenting with overhangs and supports (flexible filaments don't usually play well with supports, at least in my experience) but I would call everything so far a success.

    On 8/21/2020 at 6:27 PM, imsnowman72 said:

    Y'all doing the build-your-own are very creative.

     

    That's very kind of you! I don't know that I can really lay claim to "creative"...I'm just taking an existing design and fiddling with various parameters in a rigorous and planned manner. More like putting a puzzle together than creating one. :) That's why I like 3D printing so much; I never was much good at art and didn't have much better success with using hand tools, but having a design already made and figuring out how to make it without doing any of the direct, physical work allows me to do some really neat things. Case in point: I've tasked my printer right now with making all of the pieces to build a replica of Han Solo's DL-44 blaster from Star Wars. I could never make something like that from raw blocks of wood or plastic, never mind painting the end result, but I can print pieces in five different colors (including one with real wood fibers as a filler), assemble most of them with friction fits and a few with super glue, and end up with the same result.

  8. 3 hours ago, amateurplug said:

    @RectalSonar wow! That looks nice! So you just poured the silicone on it and thats it? Wich thickness is the silicone cover? Man i really want to do that to my plugs.

    There is a chance of you doing some video of the plug? Maybe of the pouring itself.

    Yep, that's about it. I used the stuff from the link several posts back, which is a two-part resin each with a similar (very thick) consistency for both parts. Because I wasn't sure how much it would stick to things, I put a disposable zip-top bag into a cup, poured in what apparently was equal portions from each bottle (it's hard to measure because of how thick it is), stirred the two parts together with a broken half of a bamboo skewer, and poured it over the top of the plug. I didn't take a video (my hands were busy with the cup and the skewer to help scrape as much as I could get out of the cup) but it's pretty simple - try to pour directly onto the tip and make sure it flows evenly down all sides. I used the skewers to help make sure it got onto the overhang parts, and to try to keep the puddle from going off the edge of the glass. I didn't take any measurements either before or after pouring but I suppose I could try to at least get a measurement around the fattest part of the plug to see how much thickness I got in that exact spot. My guess is that it's pretty thin at the top where the color of the Ninjaflex shows through, and that it will be far thicker at the base than it is at the top.

    For what it's worth, I did all of this on the smooth side of my glass build plate for the one printer. Again, not knowing how well the silicone would bond to things, I used a little purple glue stick as a barrier; although I ended up not coating enough of the glass with glue stick to account for how the silicone puddled next to the plug, it came off pretty well on its own...a few bits here and there were left behind but a wet paper towel to remove the remaining glue stick and the part scraper that came with the one printer were sufficient to get the glass completely clean.

    And I was able to play with it a bit in the shower today. What I learned is that the silicone coating is super smooth, it did a phenomenal job at covering up the layer lines even with the thinner bit towards the top. However, I don't think 10% infill was sufficient - it deformed enough that it just squished when I sat on it. Granted, it's been a while since I've been able to get a good stretch going and I may give it another go with a little more warm-up, but I think the Mk2 version of this experiment will involve 15-20% infill and raising the area of dense infill from just the start of the neck and down into the base, up to maybe halfway between the top of the neck and the widest point. I don't want to take the dense infill much higher than that because then it's not going to be as comfortable, but I also don't want the plug to just crumple rather than going in smoothly. Perhaps I'll leave the 50% infill section through the top of the neck alone, go 35% from the neck to halfway to the widest section, and then 20% from there until dialing it up to 100% at the very tip (for support purposes).

    I'll probably also try out the second plug before I cover it, because I maybe used a third of the silicone on this first attempt. It says it has a limited shelf life and I don't want to buy a whole second kit for only one use...some of the other files I've found (mostly in the Naughty section of Cults3D.com) have some unfortunate overhangs and/or gaps that will be a challenge to print in a flexible filament.

  9. Update - after kind of giving up on trying to print Ninjaflex on my Ender 3 (even a simple calibration cube ended up with filament coming out between the gears of the extruder instead of through the nozzle), I threw up a Hail Mary and put it into my Sidewinder. And the results were nothing short of wonderful. The temperature tower I found for TPU still looks like trash due to all of the gaps and retractions but the flexible octopus printed shockingly well and then I did this:

    lPdlKXy.jpg?1

    17 hours or so of total print time, with 50% infill again in the neck/base and 10% in the body. Three walls didn't seem entirely enough to cover up the infill pattern, but that's a minor concern. The very tip also had a small hole, probably because the filament stuck to the nozzle a bit or because the infill left no support for the very top...I have sliced another version in the same size but with a small section of 100% infill at the very tip to prevent that from happening. I won't print that yet unless I have problems with the coating I put on:

    1oQWX5k.jpg?1

    I ended up not brushing anything, I just mixed up the silicone and dumped it on top. I probably used way too much, given the puddle that formed around the base, but wasn't sure how thick it would be nor how well it would adhere to the overhangs. After a little processing, this is what it looks like:

    rNVzEhP.jpg?1

    Not the most alluring combination of colors, but it is what it is. Applying the silicone only by way of gravity helped it be incredibly smooth, though I wonder if additional coats might not be a good idea. If this one fails in some way, I have that replacement sliced and ready to go plus plenty more silicone. When I get a chance to use it, I'll report back with how it turns out.

  10. 8 hours ago, amateurplug said:

    @imsnowman72 as @RectalSonar said above, its pretty cheap. I also have the Ender 3 with enclosure for ABS and Micro Swiss hot, so its capable of printing flexible materials. If anyone is interested in designs or prints, message me

     

    have a nice day!

    An all-metal hot end shouldn't be necessary for flexibles (Ninjaflex I know says to please not ever exceed 230˚C on the nozzle because the thermal breakdown products are nasty) but I got it to be able to print PETG without having to service the PTFE tube every other day...and yes, the Micro-Swiss hot end (and at least the Gulfcoast Robotics clone) is a great design that is easy to install.

     

    37 minutes ago, imsnowman72 said:

    Wow. Great response RectalSonar.  Thanks you.

    You're welcome! It's a fun hobby all on its own, and if you're a little technically minded and on a budget you can destroy your ass without destroying your budget. :)

  11. I don't recall how long the cone took off the top of my head but it was probably somewhere around 14 hours to print, with the plugs probably being closer to 10-12 hours. The material cost was quite reasonable, I think an entire 1-kg spool of filament was around US$30 and I printed plenty more experiments and non-toy items with the 2/3 of the spool that I used before trading it to someone for a couple of specialty filaments for other projects. Best guess is that all three of those represent maybe $7-10 worth of plastic, if I don't count the cost of testing different infills and a few failures.

    The printers themselves can really vary in price. If you're going to go the route of printing in a hard plastic and then covering it with something else that is much softer, the cheapest printer I can think of that is still remotely decent would be the Monoprice Mini Delta at US$170ish. The printer I used for these items is a Creality Ender 3, which I got off of eBay with a spool of filament for $209 (it can be had for as little as $180 if you're bargain hunting, or even less if you go with a refurbished/used model). I also recently got a much larger Artillery Sidewinder X1 for $359 on an insane deal from GearBest (admittedly not the most reputable vendor when it comes to customer service, though I may have been lucky and only had a problem with the order during shipping). While the Sidewinder should be able to print soft materials right out of the box (which I haven't had time to test yet), I did have to install some modifications on the Ender 3 because the stock design isn't necessarily suited to printing with flexible materials...that mod was roughly $60 but some people have been successful with free designs they print themselves. The Ender 3 is one of the most popular consumer-grade printers out there, only rivaled by the Prusa i3 (a kit version of which is probably in the US$750 range), and has a ton of community support. If you had money to burn, there are consumer/business-grade printers that go up into the multiple thousands of dollars range that add more features and capabilities; for example, if I won the lottery I'd buy a Raise3D E2 with dual extruders and an enclosure.

  12. 12 hours ago, NeutralOmen said:

    There are face pics of this person. She's not old. But the face also gives away that it's a transgirl. I really think there is a lot of ROSEBUTT colored glasses we're looking through here.

    That may be true. Speaking only for myself, I do occasionally watch videos with t-girls and solo male experiences not because of any attraction to the person (my preferred body type is somewhere between Christina Hendricks and Jessica Rabbit), but rather imagining how it would feel to be doing what they're doing. And what we have here is quite a stretch indeed...even if I can't achieve that now nor believe I'll ever go that far, it's fun to imagine it.

  13. I may also have read your post too quickly in my excitement for 3D printing...with the egg covering it, that certainly would mitigate the hardness of the PLA.

    I'm using Cura, as when I first started getting into 3D printing I ended up watching a lot of CHEP videos and that guy pretty much exclusively works in Cura. The profile I got is from a different channel, Technivorous, and I think I made a few tweaks here and there:

    QVCxrjB.png

     

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    rIufqJY.png

     

    27VsBUY.png

     

    dryaGVf.png

     

    The plugs (and a stretching cone I forgot to mention) were all done in Hatchbox green TPU. The cone I think I did with 10% infill to give it a little rigidity but the plugs are as I said above, with variable infill at 50% in the neck/base and 5% in the body. When I sliced the plugs I didn't know the proper trick for variable infill settings (use a support blocker to cover the desired area, select the blocker, go to Per Model Settings, set mesh type as Modify Settings for Overlaps, then delete the pre-selected settings in favor of Infill Density) and ended up using Tinkercad to split the neck/base and the body into two separate files which I then stacked on top of one another in Cura and used Per Model Settings to adjust infill accordingly. I still need to give them the silicone covering treatment but some initial tests with very vigorous cleaning afterward have been pleasant.

  14. PLA? That doesn't sound very comfortable. Although I know there are plenty of rigid metal and glass toys out there, as well as firmer rubber/plastic toys, at this size range I would want something with a little more flexibility. TPU is obviously much more of a challenge to print with but it can do what PLA/ABS/PETG cannot in terms of flex. I printed a couple of plugs with some 95A Shore hardness TPU and had to drop infill down to 5% (with three or four walls) to have the right balance of strength and squish...I also upped the infill in the neck/base to 50% so it would hold up to being sat upon. Going to 10% infill in the main body was a little on the firm side but still doable. My next goal is to print with Ninjaflex, maybe up around 20-25% infill, and see how a very soft TPU compares to what I used previously.

    The other concern with PLA is that it will be hard to keep clean. The condom is nice, but if there's anywhere on there that might touch fluids that the condom and egg don't cover, you will have a hard time with properly cleaning - you can't boil it or put it in a dishwasher because PLA has such poor temperature resistance. ABS and PC have far superior temperature resistance but you'll almost certainly need an enclosure to keep them from warping and cracking during printing; PETG is easier to print with but shouldn't be boiled (a dishwasher or chemical sanitization means would be fine).

    Although I haven't used it yet, I got a silicone that checks all the boxes: it's designed to be brushed on so it's not too runny, it's got good temperature resistance, and it's a platinum-catalyzed resin that should be body-safe. Not sure if you'll have access to it in Spain but here's the Amazon link anyway just in case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EFEK8BS.

  15. It's interesting you're printing with PLA...I've printed a few items with TPU that were rather firm on their own. Admittedly, I used the 95A TPU from Hatchbox, though I can only imagine how much harder PLA would be. But hey, if you're using a safe barrier material and enjoy it, more power to you!

    My goal, once I get a few other printer issues sorted out (I had a crash last month that is still causing lingering problems I can't seem to solve) is to print a few toys with Ninjaflex, then coat them in a brush-on silicone. Between the super soft Ninjaflex core and a non-porous coating, I think they would be quite fantastic.

  16. I've recently gotten into a good rhythm where I knock out a quick stretching session in the shower before drying off. It's not a lot of time but it's nice all the same, and even if I can only play with one toy it's helping keep me on a good schedule and allowing me to slowly work my way up in size.

  17. 3 hours ago, Hopeful said:

    Rectalsonar what toys would you suggest to really loosen up? I’m pretty new to this and really appreciate your advice 

    I'm sure some of the more experienced folks here will know best, but my opinion is that if you're looking to stretch your hole more than anything else I think there are two real approaches - penetration from dildos (or other items), or long term wear of a plug designed for stretching that has a wider neck (like the Acorn from SquarePegToys). Most plugs have that nice initial stretch but won't do anything for you if you leave them in for long periods, you'd need to push them out and back in again to get the same effect. I know I've gotten to where I am largely from dildos, as they keep you opened up the entire time they're inside of you.

  18. On 3/12/2020 at 1:38 AM, Rambone said:

    Erol, go and google "1 man 1 jar". I've not put anything glass up my arse since I first saw it.

    Use plastic drinks bottles and fill them with the warm water. Much softer and safer!  :)

    This. Solid glass toys (purposely made for vaginal/rectal use) or just no glass at all is the way to go, please don't risk using hollow glass inside your body for any reason...you only have to watch that video once to understand why this is a bad idea.

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